Don’t bark at the dog

By Kevin Glynn

Years ago when my wife and I were still dating, she bought me a game called “Man Bites Dog.” At the time we were journalists. The game was actually a newspaper headline game where you constructed silly headlines.

Years later, now that we’re dog behaviorists, the name of the game actually has more meaning for me. One of the most common mistakes I see when I’m out walking the pack or training comes from fenced properties (electronic or conventional) where the dogs are left unattended.

As we walk calmly by, the dogs on these properties can act aggressively. Some are just frustrated. Others are actually inviting play. But at times, I’ve seen some of the dogs redirect on each other due to the frustration of not being able to get to us.

The owners feel understandably helpless. There is no way for them to calmly call them off, and they can’t physically overtake their dogs, who are now running laps along the property line. If they do anything, they usually resort to yelling commands at the dogs, who by now are so excited that they cannot hear or process any of the commands.

Owner: “COME! STOP THAT! NO FIGHTING! I SAID COME! RIGHT NOW! LET’S GET A COOKIE!”

What the dog hears: “WOOF! WOOF WOOF! WOOF WOOF! WOOF WOOF WOOF! WOOF WOOF! WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF!

We started with a dog who was excited and began barking to alert others, and we wind up with the owner following the example set by the dog. The barking owners are actually reinforcing the bad behavior and the dog’s position as pack leader. And to top it off, once the threat of the walkers has passed, the dog can run back to the house for a reward!

Trying to control an unleashed dog on a large property is no easy task. If there are multiple dogs on the property, the problem can become exponentially more difficult because each will feed off of the others’ energy.

This is really a two-part problem. The first part is learning to control the energy of the dog. If the dog becomes too stimulated, it will not be able to reliably respond to commands. The second part deals with recall and obedience. If the dog is calm enough to hear a command, has his or her recall been reinforced effectively enough so that it will come back to you when called?

If you have a dog who reacts to passersby, you need to simplify the exercise if you are going to change the behavior. Start by practicing your recall in a small area without any competing stimulation. Increase the distance as you realize success. Once you have a 100 percent success rate, work with the dog on leash as people go by. Then work off leash in a small confined area where the dog can see you as people pass. Then, in the same small area, stand behind the dog and practice calling it to you as people pass. If you offer treats as a reward, wait for the perceived threat to be gone and for the dog to be calm. If you offer a reward to an excited dog, it will snap the treat out of your hands, run back to work, and then come back for more. Be patient and work your way up to larger areas. If there are any setbacks, move back to a smaller area.

As always, your commands should be short, simple and serious. Say “Hey!” loudly enough for the dog to hear you and wait for an acknowledgement. If you don’t get it, you need to move to where the dog can see you. If you get the acknowledgment, tell the dog to “Come.” If the dog acknowledges you but doesn’t listen, you need to practice your recall without any competing stimulation. And remember - never yell at or otherwise punish a dog when it comes to you. If a dog is going to be punished for listening to you, it won’t follow direction very well.

Whatever you do, don’t bark commands at the dog. At best, you will reinforce the unwanted behavior. At worst, you will make the dog think that you cannot effectively lead the group without him or her.